Practical Information
Visa & entry
Most Western nationals can obtain a 30-day tourist visa on arrival at Cotonou airport (CIW) for around XOF 50,000-100,000. Carry proof of return ticket, accommodation details, and yellow fever vaccination certificate (mandatory). Passport must be valid for 6 months beyond travel dates. Citizens of ECOWAS (West African Economic Community) can enter visa-free for 90 days.
Money & payments
The West African CFA franc (XOF) is the currency; 1 EUR is roughly 655 XOF. ATMs are common in Cotonou and major towns but rare in rural areas; withdraw cash when you can. Credit cards accepted in larger hotels and restaurants but not street vendors. Bring USD or EUR cash as backup. Informal money exchange happens everywhere but carries risk; use banks or official cambios.
SIM cards & internet
Mobile providers: Moov, MTl, and Glo offer prepaid SIM cards (XOF 2,000-5,000). Data bundles are cheap and reliable in urban areas (1GB for ~XOF 5,000). GPRS/4G coverage drops significantly outside major cities. Most hotels and restaurants have WiFi. Internet cafes exist in towns but are slower. eSIMs not widely supported by local carriers.
Getting around
Intercity travel relies on shared minibuses (bush taxis) and long-distance buses; they depart when full and stop frequently. Journey times are unpredictable. Taxis within cities are metered in Cotonou but unmetered elsewhere; negotiate fare upfront. Domestic flights via carriers like Asky connect Cotonou to Parakou in the north but are expensive. Car rental with driver is popular for multi-day trips. Roads are potholed outside main routes; avoid driving at night due to visibility and banditry risk in the north.
Health
Yellow fever vaccination required; malaria, dengue, and typhoid are endemic. Start antimalarial medication before arrival. Tap water is unsafe; drink bottled water. Medical facilities are basic outside Cotonou; serious illness may require evacuation to Ghana or Togo. Get travel insurance covering medical evacuation. Pharmacies well-stocked with medications. Hospitals expect upfront cash payment.
Language & etiquette
French is the official language; English spoken in tourist areas but not widely. Learning basic French greetings opens doors. Greet with handshakes; use titles (Monsieur/Madame) until invited to do otherwise. Photography of people requires permission; some believe photographs steal souls or are used for witchcraft. Avoid criticizing government, military, or voodoo practices. Dress modestly, especially in northern/Islamic areas. Bargaining is expected in markets but do so respectfully.
When to go
Dry season (November to February) is best; temperatures 25-30C, low rainfall. Harmattan wind blows dust from Sahara Dec-Feb. Rainy season (May to October) brings high humidity and flooding in low areas; roads deteriorate. March-April is hot and uncomfortable (35C+). Book accommodation and tours during high season (Dec-Jan); shoulder season (Nov, Feb-Mar) offers fewer tourists and pleasant weather.
Getting there
Cotonou's Cadjehoun International (COO) is the main hub, served by Carrefour Airlines, Air Algérie, Air France, and regional carriers. Niger via Niamey; Nigeria via Lagos (overland or regional flights); Togo via Lome; Burkina Faso via regional service. Limited ferry service; travel is primarily overland through West African networks or air via hubs.
